Can you say "Szlak Orlich Gniazd"?
⬅ previous ⬆intro next ➡Day 4 ~ 1 July ~ Bobolice
Breakfast is in an entirely modern building, but obviously the castle has provided design inspiration.
Possibly because there aren't many guests for breakfast this morning, they don't set out a buffet but deliver us a selection on a platter. It's a little more meat-heavy than Amanda would have chosen for herself, but pretty decent anyway. Plenty of good bread, too.
First thing, we're going to take a walk to Mirów Castle, as seen yesterday. it's owned by the same people and all part of the same estate as Bobolice, so we don't have to pay admission or anything. Not that there is a great deal to be admitted to: we read that it's just a ruin, although some work is being done.
We start from behind Bobolice.
This sign explains much if you can read Polish. We can't, but we know a Google that can:
Ladies and Gentlemen,If that sounds a little defensive, it probably is. If you search for "Mirów Castle" online, you will find a lot of people complaining how three or four years back, areas that use to be freely accessible were suddenly fenced off and only visitable after payment.
Finally, after many years, several dozen private plots separating the passage between Mirów Castle and Bobolice Castle were bought by the Lasecki family to make the path available to tourists.
After hundreds of days of negotiations, stress and sacrifices, the gigantic amounts that were paid were not financed by the European Union, Ministries, Local Government, other subsidies, etc., but only from the private funds of the Lasecki family.
We wish you a nice walk.
As we're walking, I suddenly feel my foot caught and fall flat on my face. At first I can't understand it, but if you look closely, you can see that a thin but tough plant stem has been pushed right into the lacing of my shoe. The lacing is kevlar and very strong, so it didn't break even with my full weight pulling on it, but my foot was instantly locked in place and there was no way I was staying upright. I have to take the shoe off before I can untwist it and get it free, but no damage has been done to it, and fortunately not much to me either.
Our first sight of the castle, from pretty much the opposite direction as yesterday's picture.
Closer, you can see some gantries for lifting building materials, and although not really visible from this angle, we can hear the sounds of workers' voices and machinery.
It's not clear if the castle is open to visitors at any time, but it certainly isn't now.
On our return, we visit Bobolice castle. As hotel guests, we don't have to pay, but we still have to wait for a timed entry slot. We're not entirely sure why: there aren't so many visitors that overcrowding would be a risk, nor is there any kind of tour or introduction from a guide. Basically, the hour comes, the door opens and in we walk.
This is the view back to the gatehouse. As you can see, there are some information boards but they aren't all that informative.
Some 'before' photos. It's clear that the castle today is mostly reconstruction.
And some of the reconstruction is less than true to the original.
If this had been a listed building in England, it's likely that Historic England, the body responsible, would have allowed the ruins to disintegrate completely before they'd sanction this sort of work, but the rules in Poland are obviously different. In all honesty, I don't think it's clear that either way is 'right' or 'wrong', it just depends on what your priorities are.
Inside it's kitted out in proper knightly fashion, although again we have no idea of the provenance of any of the items and they seem to be a somewhat random assortment.
One style of amour.
And a complete miscellany in this room.
In the courtyard, it's definitely not the comfy chair.
We've used up a fair chunk of the day now, and don't have time for the suggested circular bike ride in our notes, but we can improvise. Amanda thinks it would be nice to find a lakeside for lunch so we consult the map and find somewhere that looks like it'll be a nice ride for the afternoon.
Another curious little church at Góra Włodowska.
And here we are at the very posh picnic tables by Zalew Włodowice. According to a Polish website translated by Google, the lake is artificial, created as a reservoir. The word 'zalew' means 'reservoir' in English, although given that 'reservoir' itself is of French origin it's arguable that there isn't actually an English word as such... In fact, Wiktionary says that the same word is used in Dutch and Indonesian, while the German for reservoir is Reservoir [capital letter for nouns, of course] too! Did nobody ever think of storing water until some Frenchie said, "Ooh la la, we 'ave 'ad zis rilly good idea"?
But such philological quandries are well in the future for us now; we've about to have our lunch and a little stroll.
Back in the town of Włodowice, we stop to buy a few things at the supermarket but are quite taken by yet another church. The Poles do like a good bit of ecclesiastical architecture and so do we.
The patron saint of "Whatever, like, when you're ready, don't mind me..."
This very fancy cemetery is nothing to do with the aforementioned church; it's more than ten minute's bike ride away and seems to be a bit in the middle of nowhere. A railway line and several roads pass by, so it's probably quite accessible if not very peaceful. When Andrew Marvell wrote, "The grave's a fine and private place", this may not have been quite what he had in mind.
Fancy a rather lurid ice cream? We don't partake so cannot discuss further.
And this is Polish wine.
I confess that I have forgotten now what we thought of it, and some online research hasn't really helped. However, I can tell you that according to a Polish wine merchant,
This is one of the most popular and leading table wine brand in Poland. In a very diverse wine market, Fresco's price in relation to quality is a distinctive and noteworthy element. In these respects it has no equal. The manufacturer has met the expectations of lovers of light, casual spirits, seeking delicious taste, relaxation and pleasure.So there!
Fresco is definitely more than wine. It is a combination of tradition and modernity, which make each sip of it an obvious festival of taste. Fresco wines offers incredible freshness and is perfect for any occasion. Whether you want to celebrate a moment of relaxation after work or surprise your guests at a party - it's perfect for any occasion. Fresco will always be a hit.
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